Rules of conduct

Welcome at the Cafeteria! Here you can exchange ideas with Coticule users
from around the globe.
Please make sure you understand our forum rules!

Read more …
 
Avatar
Gerrit VanKommer (deighaingeal)
+1
From: United States
Posts: 205
I was recently asked about how I get an even epoxy finish on my brushes and scales. I decided that if I were to release a "secret" that it would be done here.
First and foremost, hand sanding sucks! I do not sand my finishes unless absolutely needed.
I took a rod lathe used for curing epoxy on my custom fly rods and modified it to hold whatever I am curing.
For most people they could purchase one of these from any rod building supplier or they could obtain a rotisserie motor and modify that to function as they see fit. I have many of these some with adjustable RPM and some reversible, but for most of applications I stay between 10 and 36 RPM.
The picture includes how I mount a brush handle (Chris' brush).
For scales I have an adapter made from packaging foam that allows me to use paper clips coated in paraffin wax to hold them. I must say that I rarely use epoxy for scales, but when I do this makes it so much easier. I have no drips to sand off and the finish is even.
If you are using this for scales do not coat the wedge area too thick as this makes the wedge fit poorly and then you have to sand I generally coat this area very thin if at all during this process.



That is two motors attached to a plate I switch between them by moving the belt.
I use the foil below to mix the epoxy then to catch drips as I pay more attention to the handle rather than the application brush.
-G
2010-11-30 21:31
Avatar
Dr Ralfson Bwhahaha (tat2Ralfy)
Associate
Posts: 3610
Gleaming :thumbup:

I use a small metal lathe in much the same way, and yes hand sanding sucks...lol

Regards
Ralfson (Dr)
We Are All Pioneers In Our Own Right.
The Infamous Coticule Crew
Pip Pip Old Bean
2010-11-30 21:52
Avatar
Smythe
Advisor
From: United States
Posts: 990
Now that’s a peach. The folks who make brush handles will turn on a wood lathe… but most wood lathe cannot spin slowly enough for epoxy coat.

And you adapt this device for razor scales… genius indeed… thanks for sharing :thumbup: :thumbup: .
2010-12-01 01:32
Avatar
Toff
From: United States
Posts: 240
Good on yer! A nice way to get an even coating!
Cheers
~Richard
"Life is a journey between birth and death, preferably undertaken with panache!""
2010-12-04 01:56
Avatar
Gerrit VanKommer (deighaingeal)
+1
From: United States
Posts: 205
Thanks guys I hope this helps someone.
-G
2010-12-04 17:33
Avatar
Matt
Associate
From: Poland
Posts: 1047
Chaps, how long should I expect epoxy resin to cure? I glued the liners to the scales, and, although hard, the thing is still sticky after 24 h... I'm talking regular epoxy here, 10 parts resin to 1 part of hardener. Funnily enough, three or four days ago I was testing one of these epoxy glues that you mix 1:1 as a finish - its still sticky, too... :blink:

cheers,
Matt
"Very interesting indeed :) I did something similar with cheese a while ago" - Dr Ralfson
2011-10-26 21:34
Avatar
Emmanuel Giannoulakis (Emmanuel)
Advisor
From: Greece
Posts: 942
Matt.Normally all adhesives of two parts need 8 days to get full hardness.
Best regards
Emmanuel
Emmanuel Giannoulakis
from Athens Greece
2011-10-26 22:36
Avatar
Dr Ralfson Bwhahaha (tat2Ralfy)
Associate
Posts: 3610
Try Devcon 5
It sets in 5 minutes, but still has a slightly surface for a day or two, unless you get it out of contact with air, top tip is a little vacuum pot that you can buy for storing food items etc, I use one made would you believe for drawing air out of fishing pellets, or even simpler is a wet finger rubbed all over, spit works better than water too as its more sticky
You will need to leave it a day after you wet it, but dry it first as the damp may cause the top surface to bloom (cloud over)

And once it's set hard, it is tough as anything
We Are All Pioneers In Our Own Right.
The Infamous Coticule Crew
Pip Pip Old Bean
2011-10-27 01:49
Avatar
Matt
Associate
From: Poland
Posts: 1047
Thanks, guys.

Ralfy, I'm confused about wetting/drying, excuse me, try a bit slower, please .:)
icontat2Ralfy:
You will need to leave it a day after you wet it, but dry it first as the damp may cause the top surface to bloom (cloud over)
"Very interesting indeed :) I did something similar with cheese a while ago" - Dr Ralfson
2011-10-27 16:24
Avatar
Dr Ralfson Bwhahaha (tat2Ralfy)
Associate
Posts: 3610
iconMatt:
Thanks, guys.

Ralfy, I'm confused about wetting/drying, excuse me, try a bit slower, please .:)
icontat2Ralfy:
You will need to leave it a day after you wet it, but dry it first as the damp may cause the top surface to bloom (cloud over)


Rub it over with a wet finger once it has cured, this will remove a lot of the stickiness, then wipe it dry with a soft clean cloth or tissue, and set it aside in the warm for a day, then you should find it loses any remaining stickiness :thumbup:

I did read my reply after I posted it, and thought it wasnt that clear myself lol

Regards my friend
Ralfson (Dr)
We Are All Pioneers In Our Own Right.
The Infamous Coticule Crew
Pip Pip Old Bean
2011-10-27 16:30
Avatar
Emmanuel Giannoulakis (Emmanuel)
Advisor
From: Greece
Posts: 942
Matt ,Ralfy i use this lamp to cure faster the musical instrument varnich.I thing is a good solution.
If you can't find it in the market you can use a simple incandescent red lamp.


Best regards
Emmanuel
Emmanuel Giannoulakis
from Athens Greece
2011-10-27 18:09
Avatar
Matt
Associate
From: Poland
Posts: 1047
Now it's all clear, good Doctor. :thumbup:

Emmanuel, is that an infrared bulb?

cheers,
Matt
"Very interesting indeed :) I did something similar with cheese a while ago" - Dr Ralfson
2011-10-27 20:46